Park a vehicle from dawn to dusk and it would be covered with elaborate web designs as if it were left untouched for months; leave cashews in anything other than air tight containers, it would be fine powder within days--ants won’t spare any eatable not even chilli powder; even oil needs to be refrigerated because a slight drop here and there is enough for their army to invade; human body is beehive to mosquitoes--their bites leaving large mounds as if they buried their dead. This of course is the everyday scene of the main city of Gadchiroli busy with all kinds of human activity, though I believe its essence is wilderness--it have a zeitgeist of forest. Obviously we were little anxious when we planned for Bhamragarh--a southern taluk of Gadchiroli district bordering Chattisgarh, known for dense Dandakaranya forest and Naxal dalams; a journey from little tamed to the untamed better knowns as jungle( aranya- Sanskrit) of punishment( dandakas).
Though first planned for 15th of August we abandoned it fearing getting caught in crossfire on such days. We left early only to be back before dark, taking along some snacks, few metres of rope to drag if our bike failed us in the midst of dense greenery and identity card--proof that we did not belong to police or CRPF. The first stop on our 180 km long journey to Bhamragarh was Chamorshi. A major tourist spot--Markanda temples along the banks of Wainganga--is few kilometres from here. We chose to skip it as we have been there before. Allapalli can be reached both via Ghot or Ashti, some 85 km from Chamorshi. Allapalli is the main connecting dot to reach all five taluks located in the south including Bhamragarh. We went for Ashti route as it is frequented by ST buses besides being familiar. A long stretch is dense forest, presenting before us the serene beauty and a prelude to denser forest that lies on the Permili- Bhamragarh road. If you could spot huge piles of logs, you have reached Allapalli. It is famous for teak wood. Around 16-17 km from Allapalli on the Permili- Bhamragarh road lies the “Glory of Allapalli”--covering 6 hectares it is the surviving patch of original forests before they were brought under scientific management more than a hundred years ago. Few trees are as old as 100-150 years comprising some of the tallest and widest trees of teak wood--widest among them was 5.61 metres and tallest measured 38 metres. There were some school children from Chandrapur visiting the site. In fact they only made us a little confident to go inside the forest in search of those trees as there was no clear marking about their location. Moreover, these children along with their constantly instructing teachers and supervisors were a kind of lid to defuse the tension that we felt when we saw an armoured vehicle pass by us towards Bhamragarh. On seeing that olive green tank moving on truck tires, we were immediately struck with phantasmagoria of a confrontation and fight.
There is an anecdote about a meeting in the 17th century between French finance minister Jean Baptiste Colbert and group of French businessmen led by M. Le Gendre. When the French finance minister asked--obviously in his eagerness to help--”How the French State could be of service to the merchants and their commerce?”, Le Gendre replied “Laissez faire( leave it to us)”. Observing the beauty of undisturbed forest, I am tempted to imagine such a meeting again in the 21st century, only a little closer to fantasy. After centuries of Laissez faire, decades of rigorous eco-friendly policies and monotonous saplings plantation, the merchants gather and ask Nature--”How can we help you?” Ironically, Nature gives them the taste of their own medicine and replies--”Laissez faire”. In the same contemporary vein when a French mayor ask law-abiding French Muslim women--”How can we give you more freedom in your otherwise controlled and slavish life?” Not surprisingly we can guess the answer.
Permili onwards there are lot of small ‘nallahs’. It was decided even before we set out that even if it rains we won’t stop because those ‘nallahs’ often overflow within few hours of heavy rain, totally cutting off the other side. Luckily it didn't rain until we were returning and that too were light showers. In any case stopping under a tree is quite dangerous in Vidarbha region. Lot of people die by lightning that is frightening enough to even shake the bravest. Hemalkasa is 47 km from “Glory of Allapalli”--only a few kilometres short of Bhamragarh. The signs of confrontation and tension are evident in Bhamragarh. The first testimony to this is the police station itself. Fenced with barbed wires both on the ground and over the compound walls gave a scary picture altogether. A guard with a gun, aiming at anything least suspecting, was standing within a cubical box of concrete. Bhamragarh ‘Triveni Sangam’ is further 1 km along the left bank of one of the three rivers--Indravati, tributary of Godavari, Pearl Kota and Pamul Gautami. Here we met again the same group of school children we met at Glory of Allapalli site, once again relaxing the tension.
Bhamragarh is mainly inhabited by Madia Gonds,declared primitive tribe by the Government of India, and only by the efforts of the NGO Lok Biradari Prakalp situated in Hemalkasa that these people are now getting education and hospital services in those dense forests. Lok Biradari Prakalp( brotherhood of people project) was started on 23rd December 1973 by Baba Amte--a social worker who worked against the stigma of leprosy and was honoured with Padma Shri, Padma Vibhushan, Ramon Magsaysay and other such awards. Lok Biradari Prakalp have a hospital, a school and an animal orphanage. It is currently looked after by Dr. Prakash Amte( Baba Amte’s son) and his wife Dr. Mandakine Amte. They were also awarded Ramon Magsaysay for community leadership. A film on their life, Dr. Prakash Baba Amte-The real hero, starring Nana Patekar and Sonali Kulkarni is hugely popular and one of the big hits of Marathi cinema. Photography is not allowed inside Amte’s Animal Ark where orphaned or injured animals are taken care of. Crocodiles, leopards, owls, eagles, bears, snakes, deer and Neel gai were some that we spotted. The guard who took us for a tour would offer his hand to leopard and the beast would just lick it--Noah’s ark it seemed for the animals.
40 kms further from Bhamragarh is Binagunda--a historical village. It is difficult to reach throughout the year and remains cutoff for about 8 months in a year. We abandoned the plan to travel further to Laheri and then to Binagunda because it would be dark if we wasted another 3-4 hours. The terrain is difficult and if your transport fails you, there is no other option but to walk and often the route remains deserted for days. We heard stories of policemen camping for Naxal operations in those jungles and succumbing fatally to Brain Malaria. It is said that primitive tribes live in Binagunda undisturbed by modernity, depending mostly on forest produce, getting wages from selling bamboo and “tendu patta”( tobacco is rolled in tendu for making bidi).
The light showers on the return did not drench us but made us worry about the small streams that flood during rainy season. So we stuck to our plan--not to stop even if rains cat and dogs. We met a certain Tyler Durden on our way back to Allapalli when following Tyler’s advice in the movie ‘Fight Club’--”Stop trying to control everything and just let go”--and replicating that scene in reality he did let loose the steering and jumped out of his lane into our’s. Despite horns and dippers he would not budge. We drifted leftwards away from the metallic track onto the muddy layer sidewards, somehow escaping a collision. Fatefully I spotted in time that the side stretch of unmetalled road ended abruptly over a small dry nallah. We were back on road escaping a fall, breaking only the spring of the side stand, stopping only to start our swearing and screaming back at that “space monkey” of Tyler. This event did not seem a planned thing until we stopped at Allapalli for a cup of tea. I kept my helmet, that has some peculiar army graphics over it, on the bench and went for tea in one of the side stalls. When I returned, a man was sitting with his hand over the helmet. I tried to slide it beneath his grip but it became firm. And then he exclaimed-”This is my helmet”. I asked--”Since when?” I didn’t sell it to him though I was always sceptical of such graphics in a sensitive area. Then he let loose the grip with a grin over his face. “Are you coming from Bhamragarh?”--he asked. I answered yes wondering how did he know. A shiver went along my spine thinking what if we were being watched all the time and what if that Tyler Durden was somehow related to this man. In my curiosity I asked that man-”How did you know?” I was relieved with quite a simple answer. He was standing underneath a tree on the Bhamragarh road when it was raining while we, with our fancy helmets, were on the move beneath the grey sky, over the grey stretch sandwiched on the sides with green.

